 |
|
 
A few years ago, Voyager Estate’s highly-regarded winemaking consultant proclaimed that Margaret River couldn’t make great Shiraz. As this view came from an ‘expert’, I listened intently. But, like a red rag to a bull, I took a special interest in proving him wrong, especially as he comes from Victoria. Taking a look at current trends in Shiraz, in conjunction with what our own vineyard could produce, I noticed two things: firstly, the emergence of Shiraz/Viognier styles coming from small parcels of well-grown, low-cropped vineyards from the cooler growing regions, notably producers such as Clonakilla and Yering Station from Victoria; and secondly, the refreshing injection of youth and creativity in the Barossa resulting in wines such as Ben Glaetzer’s Amon-Ra and Godolphin. “Aha!” I thought, “The wheels are finally turning and wine lovers are being presented with greater choice when selecting Shiraz.” No longer are we limited to port-styled Shiraz with low acid, too much wood and too little fruit. Instead we’re seeing wines that combine wonderful perfume with great structure and purity. They have fresh, vibrant fruit that is distinctively varietal and regional. Most of all, however, they have little to do with port and a great deal to do with ethereal, elegant wines. They are to be enjoyed with food rather than simply tasted and scored in a format similar to a monster truck rally. In both the vineyard and winery we work hard to cultivate and preserve fruit flavour. Why would we then destroy it with poor winemaking? In the past this is what the consumer demanded, partly because our national wine shows and wine journalists rewarded this style. But, as the great man Bob Dylan once said, “Times, they are a changing.” In my mind, it’s about time. Despite my determination to prove our consultant wrong, I wonder if I’ve had very much to do with it, as the greatest improvements have been in our viticulture. Controlling the vegetative growth of the vine, lowering crop levels, an increase in vine age, and the introduction of new clonal material have given us the opportunity to express a truly unique Margaret River Shiraz fruit profile – fresh blueberry and blackberry that soaks up quality oak, with hints of anise and forest floor and long, ripe tannins. On the 2004 vintage, the accolades speak for themselves: James Halliday’s Top 101, Australian Gourmet Traveller WINE’s Top 100 New Releases, Nick Stock’s Top 10 Winter 06 Shirazes and Huon Hooke’s claim that it is surely the region’s best. While our consultant has to live with daily taunts of Voyager Estate’s Shiraz success, we will continue to refine the style. Who knows, maybe one day we will produce a Shiraz worthy of naming in his honour, although we may have to wait until long after he has left us! Text by Cliff Royle, Winemaker |